Climbing is a sport that combines physical strength, technical skills and mental endurance, and has gained increasing popularity in recent years. With the growing interest in the sport also comes an increased focus on the injuries faced by climbers. Climbing differs from most other sports by placing extraordinary demands on the strength and endurance of the fingers, which also results in a unique collection of injuries compared to other sports.
Today it will be about the fingers, which are the primary tool for climbers to stay on the rock or climbing wall. The constant and intensive strain on the fingers during climbing, combined with complex movements and different grip types, results in a high risk of injury to the fingers. Among the most common types of injuries in climbing, we also find pulley and tendon injuries.
Pulley injuries occur when the small ligaments that hold the tendon close to the bone become congested or torn. These injuries are particularly linked to frequent use of "crimping". The result may be acute or chronic pain and swelling of one or more fingers.
Tendon injuries, including tendinitis and tendinosis, are also common. They occur due to overload and repetitive movements that over time create small damages in the tendons. These injuries vary and are often difficult and slow to heal due to the tendons' limited blood supply.
Both tendon and pulley injuries require extensive treatment and rehabilitation. Research indicates that prevention, early diagnosis, and appropriate treatment and rehabilitation are important in managing these injuries.
Part 1: Pulley injuries in climbing
Pulley injuries are among the most common and boring injuries to befall climbers. To fully understand pulley injuries, it is important to first understand the function of the pulley system in the fingers and then look at how these injuries occur, their symptoms, diagnosis, and finally how they are treated.
How The Pulley Function
The finger pulleys consist of a series of small ligaments that connect the tendons to the bones. Pulleys help keep tendons close to bones for precise and powerful movements. In climbing, the pulley system is important for maintaining grip strength and stability when using the fingers to hold onto small or uneven holds.
How Pulley Injuries Occur
The most common injury for climbers is to the A2 pulley, located in the front half of the finger near the knuckles. The A2 pulley is frequently damaged during "crimping" when the fingers are forcefully bent, placing significant strain on the ligament end. This load can result in the A2 pulley being overloaded, partially torn or, in severe cases completely torn.
The influence of different hand positions
Crimping is a grip type often used in climbing, especially on small or flat grips. This technique involves a large angle of the finger joints, which significantly increases the pressure on the pulley ligaments. This increased stress makes crimping one of the primary causes of pulley damage. While other grip types can increase the risk, crimping stands out as especially problematic due to the unnatural and intense angle and stress it places on the pulley system.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Symptoms of pulley injuries include finger pain, particularly when strained, reduced ability to fully bend the finger, swelling, and sometimes an audible 'pop' when the injury occurs. finger, especially with strain, reduced ability to fully bend the finger, swelling and sometimes an audible 'pop' when the injury occurs. The diagnosis of pulley damage commonly involves a thorough physical examination, complemented by imaging studies such as ultrasound or MRI to accurately evaluate the severity of the damage.It is important to get a correct diagnosis to ensure the most effective treatment.
Treatment and Rehabilitation
Treatment for pulley injuries varies depending on the severity of the injury. Milder injuries can often be treated conservatively with rest, ice and gradual resumption of activity. You should not use anti-inflammatory drugs such as ibuprofen and iprene as a standard. Rehabilitation relies heavily on physiotherapy as it plays a crucial role in rebuilding strength and flexibility, all while ensuring that no unnecessary strain is placed on the injured area.
In the case of more serious injuries, where one or more pulleys are completely torn, surgical intervention may be necessary. Surgery typically involves repairing or reconstructing the damaged ligament. Following surgery, there is an extended rehabilitation period with a physiotherapist. During this time, exercises and the return to climbing activities are carefully supervised to prevent the injury from happening again.
Prevention and Risk Reduction
Prevention of pulley injuries begins with a good warm-up and slow adaptation to the stress on the fingers. Climbers should improve their technique and use different grip types to avoid strain on specific finger areas.In addition, regular climbing-specific strength training of the fingers and hands can help prevent injuries.
To effectively prevent pulley injuries, it is crucial to prioritize a gradual and systematic approach when it comes to enhancing both your finger strength training regimen and the load applied to the pulley system. Examples of exercises to improve finger- and pullet strength can be; Lift-off, hangboard training, Campus board, exercises on chaos wall/spray wall and of course climbing itself.
Long-Term Consequences
Injuries to pulleys can lead to long-term consequences such as chronic finger pain, reduced grip strength, and in some instances, limited finger mobility. These consequences emphasize the importance of getting help from a physical therapist for the rehabilitation of a pulley injury.
It is extremely important that climbers understand their body's limitations and listen to the signals it sends. With proper treatment and rehabilitation plans, climbers can get back to their sport with increased strength and reduce the likelihood of future injuries.
Part 2: Tendon injuries in Climbing
Tendon injuries are another common type of injury faced by climbers. Tendon injuries often occur as a result of overuse and repetitive motion, which is a fundamental, but problematic, aspect of the sport of climbing. Understanding tendon injuries, their symptoms, diagnosis, treatment and prevention is essential for every climber.
Causes of Tendon Injury in Climbing
In climbing, the tendons are exposed to extreme loads through repeated and often intensive movements. This constant stress can lead to microtrauma in the tendons, which over time can develop into more serious injuries. Particularly exposed are the flexor tendons in the fingers, hands and forearms, which are crucial for climbers' ability to grasp and hold onto a hold.
Grip types and relationship to tendon injuries
Different grip types can increase the risk of tendon injuries. Crimping, as already mentioned, can also adversely affect the tendons. This type of grip places considerable stress on both the pulley system and the tendons. Other grip types, such as 'pinch' and 'sloper' are straining the tendons and not the pulley system, especially if performed with poor technique or without sufficient rest between wall attempts and climbing sessions.
Common Types of Tendon Injuries in Climbing
Tendinitis is an inflammation of the tendon, and is one of the most common tendon injuries in climbing. This condition often occurs due to overuse and can cause pain, swelling and reduced function.
Tendinosis is a tendon injury without inflammation, caused by the degeneration of the tendon tissue due to overloading, often related to a previous injury that was not fully rehabilitated.
Symptoms, Diagnosis and Treatment Methods
Symptoms of tendon injuries include pain, stiffness, and decreased strength in the affected tendon. Diagnosis is usually done through a clinical examination by a physiotherapist. Diagnostic imaging, like ultrasound or MRI, can also be used to determine the severity of the damage.
TreaThe treatment of tendon injuries can range from physiotherapy and conservative rehabilitation to, in rare instances, surgery, depending on the severity of the damage. Physiotherapy is highly effective as it offers a comprehensive treatment approach to injuries, creating a personalized rehabilitation plan to restore strength and flexibility, and address any biomechanical issues.
Prevention of tendon injuries
Prevention of tendon injuries is essential and begins with proper warm-up before climbing. A good warm-up prepares the tendons and muscles for the stress of climbing and reduces the risk of injury. In addition, strength and technique are important; learning and maintaining good climbing technique can reduce unnecessary stress on the tendons. Adequate rest between climbing sessions is also a must to allow the tendons time to recover from exercise.
Long-Term Consequences and Management
Repetitive tendon injuries can cause long-term problems like ongoing pain, reduced strength, and flexibility, and sometimes permanent limitations.
This emphasizes the importance of correct diagnosis, effective treatment and careful rehabilitation. Climbers should work closely with a physical therapist to ensure the best possible treatment and to prevent future injuries.
Summary Advice for Climbers
Climbers should keep the following key points in mind to prevent tendon injuries:
- Proper warm-up before climbing to prepare tendons and muscles.
- Learning and maintaining good climbing technique to reduce unnecessary strain.
- Implementing adequate rest and pre-hab exercises between climbing sessions.
- Increased attention to the body's signals, as well as avoiding ignoring pain or discomfort.
- Consult your physiotherapist for signs of injury to get a correct diagnosis and treatment plan.
Part 3: Prevention and Long-Term Management
Incorporating effective prevention strategies and long-term management is crucial for minimizing the risk of pulley and tendon injuries in climbing. This includes proper warm-up and cool-down when climbing, targeted strength training and mobility exercises, gradual progression in climbing difficulty, and the importance of a training plan with planned progression and recovery periods.
Correct Warm-up and Cool-down
Warming up before climbing helps prepare the body for the physical load ahead. An effective warm-up should include light cardiovascular activity, such as jogging, skipping or jumping in place, to increase overall body temperature and thus improve body functions. Followed by dynamic stretches, mobility exercises and specific exercises, targeting the muscles and tendons used in climbing, to increase blood flow and activity in these areas.
Cooling down after climbing is just as important. This process helps to gradually lower the heart rate after hard climbing and promotes the removal of metabolic waste products from the muscles. Cool-down can include light cardiovascular activity and static stretches, which help reduce muscle stiffness, DOMS (Delayed Onset of Muscle Soreness) and increase flexibility.
Strength training and mobility exercises
To achieve optimal results in strength training, it is crucial to give special attention to developing the strength in your shoulders, forearms, hands, and fingers. However, it is equally important to ensure that you maintain a well-rounded approach by giving due consideration to all muscle groups. This all-encompassing strategy will help you avoid any potential muscle imbalances and maximize the effectiveness of your workouts. Exercises such as grip training with different grips and weight-bearing exercises can be effective. Mobility exercises are also essential to maintain good movement capabilities in the joints and prevent stiffness.
Gradual Increase in Difficulty
A gradual and controlled increase in difficulty in climbing is essential to safely strengthen the hands and fingers. This involves starting with easier routes and gradually switching to more challenging routes, all the while being aware of your body's response. It is important to avoid jumping too quickly to higher levels of difficulty as this can increase the risk of injury.
Regular Breaks and Rest
Regular breaks and adequate rest are essential to allow the body to recover and prevent overuse. Climbers should ensure that they have an individualized training plan that allows adequate rest between climbing sessions and that they always listen to their body. If pain or discomfort occurs, it is important to take a break and seek professional advice. This not only helps prevent injury, but also contributes to better overall performance.
Summary and advice
This article has examined the main aspects of pulley and tendon injuries in climbing, two of the most common injury types in this demanding sport. Pulley damage, especially damage to the A2 pulley, often occurs as a result of intensive loading while using specific gripping techniques such as crimping. Tendon injuries, such as tendinitis and flexor tendon injuries, are typically caused by overuse and repetitive motion. Both types of injuries can cause significant pain, loss of function and, in severe cases, long-term consequences.
The importance of prevention and a responsible approach to training and climbing cannot be emphasized enough. Proper warm-up and cool-down, targeted strength training and flexibility exercises, as well as a gradual increase in difficulty, are essential to prevent these injuries. Likewise, regular breaks and adequate rest are essential to allow the body to heal and prevent overload.
In conclusion, it is important for climbers to understand and respect their body's limits and to approach their sport with a holistic approach that includes both physical preparation and mental awareness. By doing this, climbers can fully enjoy their sport while minimizing the risk of injury and promoting a healthy and sustainable climbing career.
