True core strength for climbing: Understand your core and how to train it.

Training 3 min read

Core training is one of the most talked about topics in climbing and for a good reason. When we talk about core training, there are a lot of concepts and attitudes at play.

So let me start by saying that the core is a concept that is not only made up of a number of muscles, but is a function that goes beyond what muscles alone can perform.

This is also what makes the core one of the most discussed topics in the training and sports world. With enough PTs and physios, like me, who work with climbers on a daily basis, it is clear that it is difficult to figure out the true strategies to improve your climbing through core training.

In this post, I present my strategies for core training and give you a few exercises you can get started with to support your climbing and build a strong and functional core.

Let me start by briefly introduce you to the spine...

Your spines role in core training

Deep in the back we find the spine, which plays an important role in creating stability, both when you stand still for a long time and when you move your back. At the same time, it protects the nerves that run inside the spine and has a shock-absorbing function.

The spine is divided into 4 parts: the neck, upper back, lower back and sacrum. When we talk about core function, it is your ability to stabilize or stiffen the spine, both when you are standing still and when you are moving. Even when you move parts or the whole back, stability must be maintained over all joints in the back.

The spines role in core training

It is important for your arm and leg movement and your ability to generate power that your back is as stable as possible. It ensures that the arms and legs have a stable place to "pull" from when they move.

Specifically, your core function depends on 3 things which are mutually dependent and fully integrated:

  • The muscles which are referred to as the core muscles.
  • Your breathing.
  • Your ability to maintain an intra-abdominal pressure (IAP) and the integrated spine stabilizing system (ISSS)

The intra-abdominal pressure (IAP) and the integrated spine stabilizing system (ISSS)

The stability of your back is created in an interaction between your breathing and your muscles, called IAP and ISSS.

IAP is the ability to maintain a constant pressure in the abdomen, which helps to keep the back as stiff as possible, regardless of the movement you are doing.

It is your deep-core muscles (Diaphragm, pelvic floor and Transversus abdominis) which, together with your breathing, create the intra-abdominal pressure, IAP.

ISSS is a balanced co-activation of the deep flexor muscles in the neck, the back extensors in the neck and upper back, as well as the diaphragm, pelvic floor and Transversus abdominis, which regulate IAP and create stability. Together, ISSS and IAP creates a strong core, and the integration of both should be a important focus in your core training

3 rules for your core training

True core training is training of the entire stabilizing system consisting of IAP and ISSS, and has nothing to do with sit-ups or front levers. The truth is that far too many people train way too hard for what their core function can handle, simply because they have never really trained it.

Therefore, there are 3 rules that ensure correct and good training of your core function:

  • Correct breathing pattern and IAP regulation.
  • Good core quality/control during all dynamic movements of arms and legs.
  • Ensure that all joints are centralized throughout the movement. This means that resistance and load must be adapted to the individual climber's ability to maintain good form through exercises and movements.

A core exercise to improve your core function

This static exercise aims to activate the entire stabilizing system, and can easily be adapted to any individual.

To do this exercise correctly, you should bend at the hips enough that your entire back has full contact with the ground during the exercise.

If the lower back leaves the ground, you have lost your stability! It is the weight in your hands that determines how much your stabilizing system has to work.

The focus throughout the exercise is on breathing into the sides of your abdominal region - there should not be an up/down movement of the chest.

Aim for 2 -5 minutes

Another and more demanding exercise for your core function is a dynamic version.

The same rules apply as in the static version.

Aim for 2-3 minutes.

Thanks for reading this far 😉 If you find the information useful and you haven’t already. You should take a look at our A STRONGER CLIMBER APP-

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